Author Topic: For JD  (Read 610 times)

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Offline acctingman

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For JD
« on: September 11, 2017, 07:42:49 AM »
Hey Judge

So, when you build armor kits do you ever use oils? I'm on my third armor kit, a 1/35 Tamiya PzII and it looks like dogshit. Now, I'm my own worst critique, but I also know it's going to take a long long time before I get better at this.

The assembly, airbrushing primer and base coats is easy, but where I stumble is the weathering process. I've done tons of youtube watching but I'm at a point where I just can't watch anymore videos  :pullhair:

Do you do pin washes? Do you use oils, enamels or acrylics? Do you do a  glossy, matte or varnish coats before your washes? I get a little confused when to do chips, filters, streaking....I mean, I understand what they are and how to do them, but never know WHEN to do them.

So, how do you do your weathering sequence? I'm wanting to learn all this using oils. The kits I've seen done using oils look so much better than kits without.

Anyone else here who builds armor kits, please, feel free to chime in.

Thanks folks


Offline JudgeDredd

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Re: For JD
« Reply #1 on: September 11, 2017, 11:47:48 AM »
Hi acctingman

I'm afraid I don't go all that way into weathering. I know what you're talking about - I've likely seen the same videos. But I've only made a couple of armoured products and 1 aircraft model where I've weathered them.

For my Challenger, all I did was coat it with Johnsons Klear and then wash it with Florry Models Dark Dirt wash and when it was dry, wiped it off with some damp kitchen roll. I then used some Florry Models Rust and dabbed it on a few areas and again, wiped it off - for the most part.

That was pretty much it.

For my Leopard 1A4, I washed the model with Florry Models Concrete wash and wiped most of it off. I did the same thing for my Su-27 Flanker.

So I'm no expert at it. Generally, I'm just going for "messing up" the finish. I've seen the videos where people go hell for leather - and they get great results...but I'm just starting out on it myself. I might get more adventurous later on...who knows.

Make sure your model is covered in a coat of finish. As I said I used Johnsons Klear but I've since moved to Alcalad. I'm not sure if there's any difference in using matte or gloss except for the finish obviously...but for applying weathering solutions, I wouldn't imagine there's any difference. Some people cover their model in another coat of their favourite finish - weather that's matte, sating or gloss is down to individual taste on the finish. But I haven't done that as yet.

Good luck and remember to post your finished products here for praise and scrutineering   O0 O0
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Offline acctingman

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Re: For JD
« Reply #2 on: September 11, 2017, 12:23:55 PM »
Nothing made is worth posting!  :P

Did a Stug IV that looks ok for my first build. I used hairspray to do my chipping and while it really adds a random effect, it was too much. I think for white washes, hairspray is the way to go, but for normal random chipping it's brush all the way. Everything else looks  :tickedoff:

Next kits was a M3 Stuart. I tried adding mud effects using a Vallejo product and some pigments. It looks better than the Stug IV build, but still very very rough. Also, I forgot to leave the drive sprocket off so I couldn't get the tracks on. Using this as a test model.

My Pz II looks crappy. Applied my oils on a non-coated surface and I got lots of what look like water marks.

Currently building a Panther A. I'm trying my first camo scheme. I know it's not going to turn out, but it's a learning process and I will get better at it.

Thanks for the info.


Offline JudgeDredd

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Re: For JD
« Reply #3 on: September 11, 2017, 03:40:24 PM »
It is indeed a learning process.

Just keep it simple. Work on one technique at a time...adding layers of complexity as you get better and more adventurous

I've seen the hairspray method and I would say it was for winter camo. I see alot of modellers using HB pencils for light chipping
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Offline GDS_Starfury

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Re: For JD
« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2017, 11:04:27 PM »
missing-lynx.com will answer your questions.
Gus - I use sweatpants with flannel shorts to soak up my crotch sweat.

Banzai Cat - There is no "partial credit" in grammar. Like anal sex. It's either in, or it's not.

Mirth - We learned long ago that they key isn't to outrun Star, it's to outrun Gus.

Martok - I don't know if it's possible to have an "anti-boner"...but I now have one.

Gus - Celery is vile and has no reason to exist. Like underwear on Star.


Offline JudgeDredd

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Re: For JD
« Reply #5 on: September 24, 2017, 12:45:32 PM »
...
Did a Stug IV that looks ok for my first build
...
Next kits was a M3 Stuart
...
My Pz II looks crappy
...
Currently building a Panther A
...
Pictures or they never happened  O0
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Offline acctingman

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Re: For JD
« Reply #6 on: October 08, 2017, 03:54:51 PM »
.....
« Last Edit: October 18, 2017, 10:18:00 AM by acctingman »

Offline acctingman

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Re: For JD
« Reply #7 on: October 08, 2017, 03:55:21 PM »
......
« Last Edit: October 18, 2017, 10:18:10 AM by acctingman »

Offline acctingman

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Re: For JD
« Reply #8 on: October 08, 2017, 04:08:14 PM »
.....
« Last Edit: October 18, 2017, 10:18:18 AM by acctingman »

Offline Staggerwing

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Re: For JD
« Reply #9 on: October 08, 2017, 04:23:08 PM »
HOLY HELL

how do I shrink these images? (from imgur)

think I figured it out  :P

put 'width=xxx' (no quotes) inside the the first img tag right after the actual 'img' (leaving a space between) using whatever size in place of the 'xxx'. 600 is a good place to start.

Here is your Panther pic with 300 for size (note that it is clickable to see the full size version):

Vituš ér enn - eša hvat?  -Voluspa


Nothing really rocks and nothing really rolls and nothing's ever worth the cost...

Offline acctingman

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Re: For JD
« Reply #10 on: October 08, 2017, 04:37:22 PM »
.....
« Last Edit: October 18, 2017, 10:18:29 AM by acctingman »

Offline JudgeDredd

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Re: For JD
« Reply #11 on: October 09, 2017, 02:12:32 AM »
Those are cool. I don't use oils personally...in fact I don't do much with weathering at all really.

The Stug looks great. What scale are these?
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Offline acctingman

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Re: For JD
« Reply #12 on: October 09, 2017, 07:31:36 AM »
Those are cool. I don't use oils personally...in fact I don't do much with weathering at all really.

The Stug looks great. What scale are these?

All my kits are 1/35th Tamiya

My local shop has a nice selection of them and always has a 20% oo sale every other month so most Tamiya kits can be had for the $30 or less range. I'm tempted to try a Dragon kit, but I'm not ready to tackle a 600 piece kit  :crazy2:

I'm struggling with the weathering process, but I'm approaching it that way....it's a process. One that I will not master anytime soon. Oils look so damn amazing on a kit....if you know how to apply them properly.


Offline Tuna

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Re: For JD
« Reply #13 on: October 17, 2017, 01:56:57 PM »
I used to paint with Acrylics for the most part. Tamiya or Polly S. I would then protect with Future Floor Polish before oil weathering. I think I did a couple coats. This both protects the paint job and makes the oil wash flow freely. Then after oil wash and powders, I would seal with Matte coat, I think I used Krylon cans. used those for primer too.

Offline acctingman

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Re: For JD
« Reply #14 on: October 17, 2017, 02:27:49 PM »
I used to paint with Acrylics for the most part. Tamiya or Polly S. I would then protect with Future Floor Polish before oil weathering. I think I did a couple coats. This both protects the paint job and makes the oil wash flow freely. Then after oil wash and powders, I would seal with Matte coat, I think I used Krylon cans. used those for primer too.

Thanks Tuna

Yea, I've read that too. Putting on oils over a gloss coat (aka future) but I've also heard the other side of it. Putting on oils over a matte finish. Watched some of Micheal Rinaldi's videos and it's his practice of NOT using a gloss coat.

It's all about experimenting for sure!