https://geekandsundry.com/3-household-hacks-miniature-painters-should-know/
I'll be checking this regularly :buck2: O0
Pulp author/Hugo award shit disturber Larry Correia is also a minis gaming nerd. He's recently started to post some of his painting tips on his FB page and website.
http://monsterhunternation.com/2018/03/01/geeky-hobbies-basic-mini-painting-tutorial-2/ (http://monsterhunternation.com/2018/03/01/geeky-hobbies-basic-mini-painting-tutorial-2/)
Thanks for this thread...might come in handy.
I never got around to painting any of my minis so I gotta think I'm nuts thinking I'm actually going to paint a model! Pfft
Pick a model and practice on it over and over again.
When painting armour
Use Tamiya NATO black as the base coat rather than primer. It gives your top paint job some depth when you paint it and don't get a wholly even coat
This is a NATO black base with a Dark Yellow coat...if I wasn't doing camo, it's ready
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1731/40803996470_df88263a8d_o.jpg)
This also helps for any rubber on your wheels
No need to mask your wheels - just turn the pressure down on your compressor and reduce your paint flow and with a steady hand, you can paint the wheel with relative ease AND you're left with that worn, touched up in field look
Admittedly I could've done better here - but you get the gist
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1755/27743023777_ba7798d2fa_o.jpg)
Also in the first image, I've got the skirting on the tank. I haven't stuck this down across the whole of the tank...I've put them on with a dab of glue at both ends so I can take them off. The reason I've done this is so I can have an even flow of camo
Oh - also
Use cocktail sticks and Super Glue (you guys call it CA glue I think). Put a dab of glue on the cocktail stick and stick it onto the unpainted side of whatever you're painting so you can hold it
As in this image, where the cocktail stick would go right through, you can use pieces of sprue
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/27743183207_9aeb58e66e_o.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1753/27743183507_9ac67fbb5a_o.jpg)
Finally for today keep clothes pegs and polystyrene around so once these kinds of pieces have been painted, you can stand them up.
or you can prime the model normally, I use a red oxide color, and then pre-shade with the airbrush like this:
(https://www.grogheads.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F-KWv1kKgDhXI%2FUYuewEk3kvI%2FAAAAAAAACF0%2FZ9vInz9xDRc%2Fs1600%2F4-22.jpg&hash=f5520f098dea1c668667cf0ac311a5486b90f186)
Classic monsters from Ral Partha.
https://markamorin.com/2019/10/28/halloween-diorama-with-classic-movie-monsters-from-1970s-ral-partha/
I almost never painted kits. I was satisfied with the
default plastic color. Typically gray/tan for Axis tanks
and some shade of green/tan for Allied tanks. But there
was the occasional oddball kit. Like an Airfix short barrel
Panzer IV which was molded in blinding white.
I tried to lie to myself and pretend it was winter whitewash but it
was just too bright of a white. It looked more like a
UN peacekeeper vehicle and I would gnash my teeth every time
I looked at it.
My reasoning for avoiding painting was by
the time I spent money on paint, I could have bought another
kit. I was following Stalin's dictum of quantity over quality.