For you counter clippers out there; or maybe even for you previously non-counter clipping naturalists - a nice tool that will put beautfully rounded corners on your counters:
http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.boardgamegeek.com%2Fthread%2F822240%2Foregon-laminations-2mm-clippers&h=nAQGAyJgK
I ordered the 2mm version last night and can't wait to give them a test run!
I want one - NOW!
That would great!
Looks awesome for a perfectionist counter clipper. Personally, I can't justify dropping 35 dollars for one of these tools--just for the sake of clipping counters. I'll stick with my pair of Walgreens nail clippers!
"Tidying" up my games has become an obession for me. I spent the weekend working on my Up Front/Banzai set and some ASL counters:
I applied errata to the Up Front cards using a labeller. I then rounded the corners using a fiskar. Next I heat laminated all of the personality cards and then trimmed off the excess plastic on each card. I now have a very sturdy and nicely rounded set of cards for Up Front (which ain't a cheap game these days!). I'm thinking about ordering a set of the newly redone action deck/personality cards/counters from Artscow. I'd be repeating this whole process and with a bunch more cards so not sure I'll go there yet (but boy, the artwork sure looks great - see: http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/796102/up-front-redesign-jerry-rigged-edition
On both Up Front and several countersheets of ASL and ASL SK, I've applied to coats of Krylon clear coat (matte). This will help reduce finger oils and dirt from getting on the counters. I'll start clipping all of these once my fancy new corner rounding tool arrives. My fiancee is sooooo excited! Not.
I also laminated all the of the CRT's and charts for 1776. My son is wanting to play it when he gets back home from his summer vacay so I have that game all ready to go (laminated the cards and sticky back laminated the mounted maps too).
I spend WAY more time making my games look good (while preserving them) than I do actually playing but I really enjoy it. I guess it all goes along with the hobby.
Quote from: GJK on July 01, 2012, 10:44:29 PM
"Tidying" up my games has become an obession for me. I spent the weekend working on my Up Front/Banzai set and some ASL counters:
I applied errata to the Up Front cards using a labeller. I then rounded the corners using a fiskar. Next I heat laminated all of the personality cards and then trimmed off the excess plastic on each card. I now have a very sturdy and nicely rounded set of cards for Up Front (which ain't a cheap game these days!). I'm thinking about ordering a set of the newly redone action deck/personality cards/counters from Artscow. I'd be repeating this whole process and with a bunch more cards so not sure I'll go there yet (but boy, the artwork sure looks great - see: http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/796102/up-front-redesign-jerry-rigged-edition
I highly recommend the homebrew action cards from Artscow (for UpFront). I ordered a set because of the difficulties I had with sourcing sleeves for the original action card deck (not a prob for Artscow edition). I've been playing regular games them for two years now and have no desire to ever use the originals again.
Like you, I clipped my Up Front counters, but (luckily) was able to resist the urge with my ASL collection (way too much clipping). Personally, I find that 1/2'' counters do not look as sharp when clipped compaired to 5/8'' counters.
Wish I had the gear to laminate my personality cards and other gaming materials (great for those many CRTs). I also like to clear-coat my counters for games that use chit pulling.
Quote from: GJK on July 01, 2012, 10:44:29 PM
"Tidying" up my games has become an obession for me. I spent the weekend working on my Up Front/Banzai set and some ASL counters:
I applied errata to the Up Front cards using a labeller. I then rounded the corners using a fiskar. Next I heat laminated all of the personality cards and then trimmed off the excess plastic on each card. I now have a very sturdy and nicely rounded set of cards for Up Front (which ain't a cheap game these days!). I'm thinking about ordering a set of the newly redone action deck/personality cards/counters from Artscow. I'd be repeating this whole process and with a bunch more cards so not sure I'll go there yet (but boy, the artwork sure looks great - see: http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/796102/up-front-redesign-jerry-rigged-edition
On both Up Front and several countersheets of ASL and ASL SK, I've applied to coats of Krylon clear coat (matte). This will help reduce finger oils and dirt from getting on the counters. I'll start clipping all of these once my fancy new corner rounding tool arrives. My fiancee is sooooo excited! Not.
I also laminated all the of the CRT's and charts for 1776. My son is wanting to play it when he gets back home from his summer vacay so I have that game all ready to go (laminated the cards and sticky back laminated the mounted maps too).
I spend WAY more time making my games look good (while preserving them) than I do actually playing but I really enjoy it. I guess it all goes along with the hobby.
Wow. You really go the whole 9 yards. The Up Front redesign photos look fantastic! I have a perfect copy of Up Front w/ the Banzai expansion and Desert War expansion. I should look into Artscow because I have put all of the action cards and personality cards in individual card protectors. The action cards fit perfectly in the card protectors, but there is excess card room around the personality cards. I can't bear to clip the counters for my Up Front game, just because I want to keep it in its original condition.
I, too, also like to preserve any CRT and player aid charts that come with any wargame I've bought. Most of the time I've found that individual page protectors work well--unless of course the charts are too big for the page protectors. In that case, I will take them down to Kinko's and have them laminate the charts. Same goes for wargame maps. Oh, how I love laminated wargame maps!
Also...great idea with preserving counters by using Krylon clear coat. In my 25ish years of wargaming, I don't think I've ever done that to preserve my counters.
Thanks for the info and your ideas, GJK. (^and Rekim's input also.)
Groggy
A few years ago I bought a heat laminator at Walmart that was fairly cheap in price. This is the exact same model:
http://www.amazon.com/Duck-9-Electric-Laminator/dp/tech-data/B004MWLO9I
It has done more laminating than I ever thought that it would do and it continues to work wonderfully. I laminate charts, CRT's, scenario cards, playing cards - anything that is just flimsy cardboard or paper. I used it to laminate the Personality Cards for Up Front as I mentioned and they came out wonderfully! I buy the A9 sized lamination pouches and put as many cards as I can inside, leaving a half inch or so inbetween each. I then carefully feed the pouch through the laminator. The material inside the pouches keeps the cards in place no problem. I thenk cut each one out without a border (and surprisingly, the lamination doesn't peel). The cards come out feeling like a plastic credit card (not quite that thick, but close!).
I'm excited to try out this new counter clipper - it should arrive in the mail tomorrow or Friday at the latest. That means a weekend of clipping coming up!
The Artscow redesign looks great and I'll spring for it some day. My set(s) of Up Front look and play wonderfully and I'm very satisified with the way that they came out.
I also recently picked up this tackle box from Plano for my ASL set (to travel with for playing). It has the thin cased Plano boxes (4 of them) plus a couple of medium sized and two more smaller Plano's:
http://tinyurl.com/89hj55v
That is my next project. I've already begun spraying clear kote on the thousand of countersheets that I have. Next will be sorting and then corner clipping. I've laminated 30 or so scenario cards but that can get expensive with all the scenarios that I have. I'm also thinking of binding my ASL Rulebook - the two gigantic binders with page protectors is just too much to carry around. Of course, I do have my own eASLRB that I put together years ago (needs errata however). That works pretty well on my tablet.
If only I was retired and had a HUGE game room to play with all of this stuff every day!
Quote from: GJK on July 04, 2012, 06:45:33 PM
I also recently picked up this tackle box from Plano for my ASL set (to travel with for playing). It has the thin cased Plano boxes (4 of them) plus a couple of medium sized and two more smaller Plano's:
Nice model. An ASL gamer buddy of mine also uses Plano stowaway boxes for his ASL counters.
Quote from: GJK on July 04, 2012, 06:45:33 PM
That is my next project. I've already begun spraying clear kote on the thousand of countersheets that I have. Next will be sorting and then corner clipping. I've laminated 30 or so scenario cards but that can get expensive with all the scenarios that I have. I'm also thinking of binding my ASL Rulebook - the two gigantic binders with page protectors is just too much to carry around. Of course, I do have my own eASLRB that I put together years ago (needs errata however). That works pretty well on my tablet.
Good luck!
Quote from: GJK on July 04, 2012, 06:45:33 PM
If only I was retired and had a HUGE game room to play with all of this stuff every day!
Amen...I hear ya...
how did Barth never yell at anyone in this thread?
I love my Oregon Laminations Counter Circumciser!
Quote from: bayonetbrant on December 19, 2017, 06:45:06 PM
how did Barth never yell at anyone in this thread?
This thread has something to do with Chanukkah, right? Maybe he was just being polite to fellow travelers carrying light this winter season. O:-)
Circumsized counters will be smaller than the other counters, and less able to spawn additional counters. That's the risk you run.
But they'll also be cleaner and safer for the hexes they go into, and arguably better fun for the game by being a better fit.
...what does this have to do with Chanukkah...?
Here in the Nordics we only clip counters :timeout: But we do that with vengeance :smitten:
O:-)
Quote from: Crossroads on December 22, 2017, 04:40:54 AM
Here in the Nordics we only clip counters :timeout: But we do that with vengeance :smitten:
O:-)
... I mean, why would you clip mapboards? Makes no sense.
Happy holidays everyone!
Circumcise all those bad boys! :notworthy:
If they want to fight my battles, they better show up in good shape!
I had a 3mm Oregon Laminations counter clipper that I think I lost in my move. I'd like to get another one but am not sure. 3mm was a bit large but okay for my purposes. Maybe a 2.5mm? Anyone have a 3mm counter clipper and downsize by chance?
Quote from: BanzaiCat on August 22, 2019, 03:48:16 PM
I had a 3mm Oregon Laminations counter clipper that I think I lost in my move. I'd like to get another one but am not sure. 3mm was a bit large but okay for my purposes. Maybe a 2.5mm? Anyone have a 3mm counter clipper and downsize by chance?
My 3mm is still working just fine, although it needs an occasional lubing. ;)
It shouldn't crap out on me for a long time, but if I were to do it again I would get the next smaller size. Had intended to do so the first time, but they were out of stock, or something, at the time.
Thanks, Nef. That's what I was thinking, too, go a bit smaller so if I clip my older games it won't look so pronounced. 'Preciate it. O0
Quote from: BanzaiCat on August 23, 2019, 11:47:03 AM
Thanks, Nef. That's what I was thinking, too, go a bit smaller so if I clip my older games it won't look so pronounced. 'Preciate it. O0
O0
I think the 3mm is fine for most modern counters of regular or large size. I still occasionally run into the smaller ones, though, and it's just on the edge of too much. I think the 2.5mm (or is the next smaller size a 2?) would be perfect for all of them.
I went ahead and ordered the 2.5mm. If my 3mm shows up eventually then I at least have some counter circumcising diversity.
I recently had my third set of Oregon Lamination deluxe corner timmers break.
Normally, after an experience like this I would have a tantrum and never buy anything from them ever again.
But I really like the look of the trimmed counters, so like an idiot I went ahead and bought a fourth clipper.
I've spent some time researching my problem, and apart from the issues that I'm unwilling to discuss in public, I have a few observations.
First, most of my clippers have been of the 2 mm variety. At the beginning one of them might have been 2.5 mm, but I really don't see how the size would have any bearing on what's been happening.
Oregon Laminations will only replace a clipper if it breaks within 30 days of purchase, so if you buy one of these things be sure to go crazy clipping as much a you can as soon as it arrives.
Second, I'm not the only person who's been having this problem.
All three of my broken clippers broke in the same way. The bottom handle (which is made of plastic) has a small upper flap that presses down on the cutting mechanism and tends to get sheared off.
After searching around on YouTube I actually found a video made by someone who was having the exact same issue.
He tried gluing the broken piece back on to the handle (getting the bottom handle off the counter clipper is an odyssey in itself, but good to know how to do), but it promptly broke off the first time he tried to use it.
Then he got fancy, glued the broken piece back on to the handle and bolted it in place by drilling a hole and inserting a metal screw.
This solution looks like it works, but I don't have an electric drill and I gather from the video that the angle of the hole has to be exactly right or you're back to square one.
The best solution that I head of was someone who made a new handle out of hard wood, and that apparently hasn't sheared off yet.
I the meantime I noticed that someone mentioned inserting a block of something to keep the handles from closing completely.
This set off a lot of lightbulbs in the back of my adled brain.
One of my great complaints in life is that I went to a public high school where they tended to separate students by how advanced they were and/or whether or not they were going on to college.
As a result, kids who were academically inclined were deprived of really important life lessons: if the counsellors thought you were going on to college, you weren't allowed to take shop.
Not that I wanted to at the time, but now I really wish I had been forced to take it so that I wouldn't have to rely on others for really fundamental activities.
Imagine going through life not being able to read -- being innocent of what goes on in a machine shop is not much different.
I became aware of the gaps in my education when I got to know my ex-wife's family: most of them were plumbers and steam-fitters from South Philly, and during conversations around the kitchen table I often felt left out (but I listened carefully and took notes).
But I digress.
I'm not that hamfisted. Between model-making, playing the violin, and handling antiques and ancient artefacts, I tend not to break things. But there's a growing pile of broken corner clippers that disagrees.
I took a really close look at what's going on.
The piece attached to the bottom handle tends to shear off when you squeeze the handles all the way shut.
But to clip a corner, the handle only needs to close about two thirds of way.
So my current approach is to insert some kind of prophyllactic block to keep the handles from putting too much stress on the flap that's prone to breaking.
My first crude attempt (not having taken shop catches up with me again) was to fasten a plastic cork from a bottle of Australian wine inside the handles with a rubber band.
The cork was a little too wide and wobbly, so I've settled on a plastic cap from a bottle of Langer's Cranberry juice. I doesn't wobble and seems to be the right size.
So far I've clipped about a thousand counters without problem.
I'm going to keep clipping as frantically as I can until the thirty days are up, after which I'll be holding my breathe until my counter-clipping reaches five digits.
I really wish Oregon Laminations would change the design of the inside of their handles so I didn't have to improvise something like this, or better yet, make the bottom handle out of something more durable than cheap plastic.
I have a 2mm and a 3mm OL clipper in the "original" all metal style. Those are my primary circumcisers and they've clipped many, many counters for many, many years now. There is a trick to using them properly however.
I also have a 2.5mm in the "deluxe" plastic style but rely on it very infrequently for fear that it will break mid session. Plus I can't clip as fast with it for some reason.
Be careful how frantic you get. I seem to have picked up some kind of repetitive motion injury in my left thumb from all the clipping I've done in the last few years. Something recently has made it even worse, and I don't think I've even clipped anything in over a year.
I can see how that could become a problem, especially with games that have a high number of counters. I try to avoid it by alternating between the left and right hands. Fortunately, a number of games I bought have pre-rounded corners (thank you, LnL).
Quote from: IronX on December 21, 2019, 01:40:51 PM
I can see how that could become a problem, especially with games that have a high number of counters. I try to avoid it by alternating between the left and right hands. Fortunately, a number of games I bought have pre-rounded corners (thank you, LnL).
The new LnL chits are quite neat for sure. LnL making them larger is a blessing as well, my eyesight is not getting better.
I might need to move from GMT trays to their new Ammo Crates, those look really neat as well.